Bali is known as the Island of a Thousand Gods. The religious connotations of this Hinduism adapted to ancestral beliefs are present everywhere and at all times. Every house has its shrine and every village has a temple. In fact, it is estimated that there are approximately 11,000 temples, which indicates an extraordinary density of religious monuments, not counting figures, small altarpieces and a long etcetera of the most varied symbolism. One could travel to Bali a hundred times and not have seen all of its heritage, however manageable the island may seem. But at least we can highlight in a single trip those places that are essential for the Balinese religious sentiment and, above all, for those who like to admire historical and artistic centres of faith with which to understand the way of living and thinking of this people. In this case we could never ignore the one considered as the Mother Temple of the Island of Bali, Pura Besakih, located at a high altitude on the slope of the Agung Volcano.
Our journey through Bali led us to the magnificent Pura Besakih, the largest and most revered temple on this enchanting island. However, this awe-inspiring site was just the beginning of our adventure, as we also explored the charming Pura Kehen, a miniature counterpart to its grand sibling. Additionally, we immersed ourselves in the rich cultural heritage of Penglipuran, a traditional village, and marveled at the architectural wonders of Semarapura Palace.
At the end of our eventful day, we found ourselves in awe-inspiring Goa Lawah, the Cave of the Bats. This mystical place is home to thousands of nocturnal guardians, whose presence emanates a profound sacredness that can only be comprehended in these faraway lands.
With each step we took, Bali continued to captivate us, revealing its diverse landscapes, spiritual enclaves, and cultural treasures. Each destination unveiled a unique facet of this tropical paradise, leaving us eager to explore more.
MAP OF THE ROUTE
This time we would have a new driver, which began to be suspicious. The person who would take us to Pura Kedeh, Penglipuran (it was his recommendation), Pura Besakih, Klungkung or Goa Lawah let his nephew go with him as co-driver, which did not bother us at all. More uncomfortable for us was his unintelligible English coming from a somewhat strange way of speaking and it was certainly difficult to understand what he was saying. Each sentence had to be repeated several times. He also suffered from a pronunciation flaw that we noticed was common to almost all the Balinese we met: he couldn't pronounce the "F" and instead exchanged it for a "P". It must be like the Chinese with the "R" who make it "L", but this was a linguistic constant during our stay on the island.
Experience the Convenience of Chauffeur-Driven Cars in Bali
When visiting Bali, having a chauffeur-driven car at your disposal can greatly enhance your stay on this enchanting island. Luckily, Routive, a Spanish company, offers a convenient solution by connecting travelers with professional English and Spanish-speaking drivers in various destinations within Indonesia including Bali, Java, and Lombok. Our recent trip to Bali would not have been as enjoyable without their invaluable service.
Routive provides flexible options, allowing you to choose between full-day or half-day car rentals with personalized routes. With this flexibility, you have the freedom to select your preferred pick-up time and location, customize your itinerary, decide on the sights to visit, and even explore the best local dining spots. Whether you have a clear plan or prefer to receive recommendations, Routive ensures you have a seamless and delightful experience.
By utilizing Routive's chauffeur-driven cars, you can fully immerse yourself in Bali's captivating atmosphere without the stress of navigation. Their professional drivers offer not only convenient transportation but also local insights and suggestions, enhancing your journey with their expertise. Planning your trip in advance and booking through Routive allows you to optimize your time on the island, ensuring that you make the most of every moment spent in this tropical paradise.
Exploring Pura Kehen, an Enchanting 11th Century Mountain Temple
Our journey began with a visit to Pura Kehen, an awe-inspiring mountain temple nestled just north of Bangli, the capital of the former Bangli Kingdom. Throughout history, Bali has been divided into multiple kingdoms, each boasting its own religious center or mother temple. Acting as a spiritual pinnacle, Pura Kehen showcases the architectural sophistication and cultural heritage of Bali, often touted as a younger sibling to the renowned Pura Besakih.
As we approached the temple, the staircase leading to it captivated our senses with intricately carved figures chiseled from volcanic stone. These guardians stood tall and majestic, imparting an air of reverence and inviting us to explore the temple's sacrosanct grounds. It was a delightful surprise, immersing ourselves in the rich tapestry of Balinese traditions and embracing the beauty of Pura Kehen's sublime surroundings.
Encounter the allure of Pura Kehen alongside us as we delve deeper into Bali's cultural treasures.
After completing the necessary formalities, which included a fee of 7000 Rupees and donning the traditional sarongs, a sense of tranquility enveloped us as we explored an exquisite Balinese temple. It didn't take long for us to realize that we were in the presence of a truly awe-inspiring sanctuary, adorned with intricate details that beautifully showcased the island's unique spiritual traditions.
From the very moment we stepped through its entrance, we were captivated by the sheer artistry and devotion that went into creating this sacred space. Every aspect of the temple was carefully crafted, reflecting the rich tapestry of Hindu cosmogony. The delicate thread of beliefs woven into the temple's design manifested in a magical universe that seemed to transport us to another realm.
As we immersed ourselves in the ambiance of this hallowed place, it became evident that Bali's essence lies in its ability to capture the imagination and connect with something larger than ourselves. This temple served as a vivid reminder of the island's profound reverence for spirituality and its remarkable ability to preserve the sanctity of tradition.
Stepping foot into this Balinese temple, we experienced a timeless beauty that transcended the boundaries of ordinary existence. Each stone, each ornament, and each architectural detail held a story to tell, painting a vivid picture of a culture deeply rooted in ancient wisdom. This captivating encounter left an indelible mark on our journey, revealing yet another layer of the enchanting tapestry that is Bali.
To truly understand the allure of this Indonesian gem, one must delve into its vibrant culture and explore the extraordinary wonders that await at every turn. Whether it's experiencing the transcendental beauty of a Balinese temple or embarking on an adventure through lush rainforests, Bali never fails to inspire awe and ignite a sense of wonder.
Let the allure of Bali's temples guide you on a spiritual odyssey, where ancient traditions intertwine with natural beauty, and the everyday world dissolves into a realm of mystique and tranquility.
At Pura Kehen, a Balinese mountain temple, each level signifies increasing importance. Upon ascending the 38 steps and passing their guardians, you reach a courtyard where you discover the revered Banyan tree, intricately entangled with boundless roots and branches, serving as the heart and soul of the sacred complex in Bangli, while protecting an alarm drum. Intrigued by what lay ahead, we ventured towards another entrance gate to catch a glimpse of the temple's only meru with its magnificent eleven-tiered roof.
The highest and final courtyard, which holds utmost significance, is both vast and momentous. It accommodates numerous shrines adorned with smaller merus that beautifully contrast the grandiose meru symbolizing the liberation from the cycle of rebirths.
It is fascinating to note that the Banyan tree, known as a spiritual symbol in Balinese culture, has thrived and intertwined within the religious complex of Pura Kehen. This remarkable connection signifies the tree's vital role in Balinese spiritual rituals and beliefs.
Furthermore, the magnificent meru with its eleven tiers is a rare architectural marvel that showcases the profound spiritual devotion and artistic skill of the Balinese people.
Immersed in a tranquil ambiance, we were captivated by an overwhelming sense of stillness, intermittently interrupted by echoes of our voices reverberating off the mountainside. In contrast to other renowned temples like Tanah Lot, Besakih, or Ulun Danu, this temple seemed to be devoid of crowds, amplifying its significance in our eyes. Whether it was the early morning hour or a lesser-known gem, we couldn't help but feel the vibrant energy enlivening each shrine, every flickering candle, and the wisps of incense gracefully dissolving into the foliage that softly embraced the temple grounds.
While exploring this serene sanctuary, we discovered a fascinating link between tranquility and spirituality, wonderfully intertwined in the gentle sway of palm leaves and the lingering scent of sacred rituals. With an aura of reverence, each corner of the temple revealed a harmonious blend of natural beauty and devotion.
Located at the eastern end of the temple, a magnificent stone throne stands adorned by sculptures of Shiva, Brahma, and Durga. These deities, supported by a tortoise and two snakes, symbolize the delicate balance of forces that sustain our world. Covered in a gentle cloak of moss, this exceptional piece of stone artistry undeniably ranks among Bali's most exquisite treasures.
Astonishing and enigmatic, Pura Kehen resembles a terraced rice paddy, presenting itself as a grand spiritual representation. Its unexpected charm, solitude, and vibrant energy captivated us. We were grateful to have included it in our itinerary, setting the tone for an extraordinary journey.
Exploring the Enchanting Village of Penglipuran
For travelers seeking an authentic glimpse into traditional Balinese village life, look no further than Penglipuran. Nestled just a short distance from the bustling city of Bangli, this charming village has captivated visitors with its timeless beauty and cultural heritage for centuries.
To enter Penglipuran, we paid a nominal fee of 3000 Rupees, a small price to pay to experience the enchantment of this remarkable village. Known for its "functional architecture," Penglipuran effortlessly blends tradition with the nuances of modern tourism, ensuring that its essence remains intact.
As we strolled along the main street of the village, we were greeted by an awe-inspiring sight of Balinese houses that stood facing each other, showcasing the authenticity of daily life in Penglipuran. The picturesque landscape, combined with the warm hospitality of the residents, made us feel like we had stepped back in time.
Interestingly, Penglipuran is home to approximately 700 people, who have cherished their ancestral roots for generations. The preservation of traditional customs and the sense of community within the village are testaments to the unwavering spirit of the Balinese people.
Immersing ourselves in the cultural nuances of Penglipuran allowed us to witness a way of life that is both unique and inspiring. From the intricate architecture to the well-preserved traditions and rituals, every corner of this village came alive with history and charm.
If you are planning a visit to Bali, don't miss the opportunity to explore the enchanting village of Penglipuran. It is a treasure trove of cultural richness and a testament to the captivating allure of traditional Balinese life.
The entranceways to each dwelling are wonderfully picturesque, adorned with ochre paint and thatched hipped roofs. These quaint houses display a sign that not only indicates the number of residents, but also the total capacity of the home. Lush shrubs, vibrant flowers, and a variety of palm and other trees offer a refreshing respite for visitors exploring Penglipuran.
Penglipuran's charm lies not only in its well-kept houses, but also in the seamless blend of nature and human habitation. The village provides two entrances through which locals commute to work in the surrounding palm groves and bamboo forests. This unique combination of vegetation and housing is best observed from the highest point of the village, providing a captivating view.
In our enchanting adventure across Bali, we were welcomed into a humble household with open arms, encountering only warmth and hospitality. We sought permission before entering the house, but to our surprise, not a single negative gesture was directed towards us. No strings attached, the kind inhabitants even offered to showcase some of the rooms within their abode, allowing us a glimpse into the shared architectural style of homes in the village.
Among the captivating features was the presence of an essential sacred space in every home - a shrine devoted to honor the deities or spirits. Positioned towards the mighty Gunung Agung (Agung Volcano), it represented a celestial connection. A fascinating tradition ensued, as we discovered that it is customary for each abode to have its own miniature temple, adorned with miniature chapels or merus. These symbolic structures, embellished with delicate flowers, fragrant incense, and flickering candles, serve as heartfelt tributes to the gods.
The bale is a significant element in a household that reflects its level of affluence. These semi-open pavilions serve various purposes, ranging from religious gatherings to workshops or meeting rooms. They are often constructed using wood and feature an open design, providing contrast to the main residence, which is typically built using more robust materials.
These bale structures play an essential role in Balinese households, not only serving as functional spaces but also as recreational areas for children. They showcase the traditional craftsmanship of the island and exemplify the architectural richness found throughout Bali.
We could also see the kitchen, called paon, with its stone oven and grandmother stoking the fire. Just as the shrines always face the Agung, the kitchens face the sea. Next to it, they had their pantry where they kept large quantities of rice from a harvest, surely nearby, on which the occupants of the house would have worked themselves.
Penglipuran seemed to us a very beautiful village where we began to understand many aspects of Balinese residential architecture, not at all haphazard but quite the opposite. Absolutely everything has a why and a why not.
The Pavilion where the community meets when necessary, or the towers where alarms or important notices are given, culminated our visit under the only sun that would be seen that morning. Because next was Besakih and that looked like the Kingdom of the storm clouds.
Besakih: Discover the Spiritual Heart of Bali
Embarking on yet another awe-inspiring adventure, we left the sleepy village behind and set our sights on the renowned Pura Besakih. After a short thirty-minute journey towards the northeast, we found ourselves at a car park positioned just over a kilometer away from the sacred temple. As per local regulations, tourists' vehicles are not permitted to enter the vicinity of this majestic religious complex, which only heightened my anticipation for what lay ahead.
The surrounding area teemed with a bustling souvenir market, where vibrant stalls showcased traditional crafts and mementos. Ticket offices conveniently stood nearby, ensuring a seamless experience for eager visitors. To reach the temple, we embarked on a pilgrimage of our own, ascending a steep slope that embraced us with the serene ambiance of the enchanting landscape.
Walking through this spiritual haven, we were captivated by the devotion that permeated the air. The sacredness of the place became palpable as we moved closer to Pura Besakih, the epitome of Balinese temples. Towering magnificently against the backdrop of lush greenery, this sacred site stood as a testament to the deep-rooted spirituality and rich cultural heritage found in Bali.
In the presence of this architectural marvel, we were reminded of the significance of the journey itself. Every step taken was a humbling testament to the power of faith. As we immersed ourselves in the tranquil atmosphere of Pura Besakih, our hearts embraced the essence of Bali.
Watch out for Deceptive Guides
Upon arrival in Bali, our driver imparted a cautionary reminder that we had long been acquainted with since our time in Madrid. In his own words, he advised us, "Exercise extreme caution when dealing with guides. Regardless of their claims that it is imperative to hire a guide to gain access to Pura Besakih, always decline their services." This recurring issue has been widely discussed in guidebooks, travel forums, and blogs, and it's crucial to shed light on it to ensure future visitors to the revered Mother Temple of Bali are well-informed.
It's worth highlighting that false guides at Pura Besakih are quite notorious, exploiting their position to manipulate unsuspecting tourists. This is why numerous seasoned travelers have stressed the importance of standing their ground and politely refusing any offers for guided assistance.
Visiting Pura Besakih in Bali comes with an entrance fee of 7500 Rupiah, excluding additional charges for camera and video camera usage. It is important to note that although there would be people offering their assistance and explanations on the facilities, their services are not complimentary. Be informed that, despite their unsubstantiated claims, these individuals will insist on a minimum payment of 300,000 rupees (approximately 30 euros), leaving you in an uncomfortable situation.
Ensure you are prepared for your visit to Pura Besakih by understanding the pricing structure and being cautious of individuals seeking exorbitant fees. By keeping this knowledge in mind, you can navigate your visit smoothly and enjoy the beauty and serenity that Pura Besakih has to offer.
It's important to be aware that there are certain areas in Bali where non-Balinese individuals are not allowed to enter, regardless of whether or not you have a guide. It's a common misconception that having a guide will grant you access to these areas, but that's simply not true. Security guards are present and have the authority to issue fines if you're caught in restricted zones.
When it comes to visiting Pura Besakih, be cautious of fake guides who may try to accompany you. They can be quite persistent and friendly in their offers, but it's best to firmly decline their services. By establishing this boundary from the beginning, your visit to Pura Besakih will be much smoother and more enjoyable. It's advisable to avoid any potential conflicts or public confrontations during your holiday or trip, as it's not considered appropriate behavior.
Our resolute stance against the persistent offers of fake guides proved effective, even in more subtle situations where individuals simply wished to give us rides on their motorbikes to the temple entrances. We remained vigilant, declining to reveal our country of origin, as we were aware that innocent-seeming inquiries often concealed ulterior motives - a phenomenon aptly described as the mamporrera question. Responding with polite but unwavering refusals, a simple "No, thank you" sufficed.
During our journey, we discovered that such measures ensured a more authentic experience, allowing us to navigate Bali's wonders with a discerning eye. By exercising caution, we were able to ascertain the true essence of this vibrant island, unadulterated by opportunistic distractions. Exploring its temples, immersing ourselves in local customs, and marveling at breathtaking landscapes, we cultivated a deeper appreciation for the unparalleled beauty that Bali had to offer.
Exploring the Mystical Pura Besakih
As we ascended the steep slope from the car park, passing by intriguing caged roosters and bustling shops, our anticipation grew. Finally, we reached the awe-inspiring main entrance of Pura Besakih, Bali's largest and most sacred religious complex. This mesmerizing sight welcomed us with a breathtaking panorama of countless merus and roofs, forming a testament to the thirty awe-inspiring temples that compose this magnificent complex, nestled against the illustrious Agung Volcano.
We couldn't help but marvel at the fusion of natural beauty and intricate architecture. Each temple housing unique spiritual significance and ornate details, harmoniously combining to create an enchanting sanctuary. The grandeur and magnificence of Pura Besakih affirmed its position as the pinnacle of spirituality and cultural heritage in Bali.
Exploring the hillside of Bali, we found ourselves immersed in the incredible presence of Pura Besakih. Despite initial doubts, the pathways emerged naturally, leading us to this majestic temple. However, amidst the watchful eyes of foreign visitors, it was essential not to forget our sarongs, a common attire worn throughout Bali.
Not only a practical necessity, but sarongs also serve as a meaningful souvenir to cherish long after leaving the island. For those without their own sarongs, rentals were conveniently available for Rp 2000, ensuring everyone could experience the spiritual ambiance of Pura Besakih.
A mesmerizing candi bentar welcomed us into the enchanting realm of Pura Besakih. This architectural marvel, located in Bali, is a true gem that merits a coveted spot on the prestigious UNESCO World Heritage List.
Despite facing persistent false guides posing as pesky mosquitoes, we stood our ground and declined their services, knowing that exploring the temple was entirely possible without their assistance.
Ascending a lengthy staircase, we embarked on a journey within Pura Besakih. This staircase, frequently captured in glossy magazines and travel guides, remains an iconic symbol of the temple. While we couldn't venture beyond the candi bentar due to access restrictions, we admired its ornate flowers and the commanding presence of numerous stone guardians, whose primary purpose is to ward off malevolent spirits.
On your journey through Pura Besakih, you will discover a hidden gem – the candi bentar. While the tradition demands that you don't cross it, the real reward lies in turning around and marveling at the breathtaking panoramic view. The experience of ascending to higher altitudes here is not only beneficial but also highly recommended, allowing you to fully immerse yourself in the essence of this sacred place.
Continuing forward, we descended a staircase only to find another one on the left, leading us deeper into the heart of the mountains. Exploring Pura Besakih is like embarking on a challenging climb amidst a multitude of shrines and towering merus. These structures loom magnificently on the sides, slowly passing by as we forge ahead, creating a grand spectacle that seemingly reaches for the heavens.
During your visit to Pura Besakih, don't miss the chance to observe the mesmerizing panoramic view from the candi bentar. Take a moment to appreciate the intricate details and architectural splendor of this sacred site.
As you descend the staircase and venture into the mountains, be prepared to encounter a labyrinth of shrines and magnificent merus. Each step you take unveils a story, a tradition, and a connection to the divine.
The origins of the largest and most significant temples in Bali, located on the slopes of Gunung Agung, remain shrouded in mystery. While some suggest it was built in the 10th century, others propose an even earlier origin, predating the arrival of Hinduism on the island. Legend has it that the interior of the volcano is the dwelling place of a mighty dragon known as Besakih, adding to the rich tapestry of Balinese beliefs, which combine ancient concepts with influences from Hinduism and Buddhism.
Intriguingly, the Besakih Temple complex, often referred to as the "Mother Temple," showcases the unique fusion of different religious and cultural elements that define Bali. Standing as a testament to the island's fascinating history, it serves as a captivating example of how Balinese spirituality blends indigenous traditions with external influences. Visitors to the temple are immersed in an awe-inspiring atmosphere, surrounded by ornate sculptures, intricately carved facades, and vibrant ceremonial rituals that bring the essence of Bali to life.
Pura Besakih, also known as the Mother Temple, holds a remarkable history that adds to its sacredness. In a devastating volcanic eruption in 1963, lava cascaded down the slopes of the volcano, destroying everything in its wake and claiming many lives. Despite the belief that the temple would succumb to the unstoppable force of nature, Pura Besakih emerged unscathed, untouched by the rivers of fire that flowed around it.
This miraculous event transformed Pura Besakih into an immortal symbol of resilience. Today, as you visit the temple, you can witness the awe-inspiring sight of dozens of merus and vibrant flowers that infuse life into this expansive and essential destination.
Suddenly we were caught in the pouring rain, which forced us to take shelter for a few minutes as we had left our umbrellas in the car. Although rain is so normal under the volcano that the Balinese themselves ignored it, no matter how hard it was falling.
The incessant drops of water were knocking at the door of the shrines. High up in the temple we could feel and understand all that peace. The ascending levels attracted that spirituality symbolised by the merus and the steps that climbed the mountain. Up there, any sign of sound that was not coming from the rain was broken. We were in a bubble that separated us from the ordinary world, far more than the actual 13,000 kilometres between Gunung Agung and our home.
This was no longer just a monument that was a World Heritage Site. It was the abode of a fire-breathing dragon and the place on the island where the Gods set foot on dry land. Where the lava never killed the flowers and the mist is a shield that separates two worlds. And we were touching that world of Legend...
We were in the heart of Bali, in the heart of a journey in which every time we turned around we did not dare to say goodbye. It was something we resisted.
But we must always look ahead, for there are many more wonders still awaiting us on this path that we set out on a long time ago. And not for long, as Bali still had plenty of surprises in store for us.
ANOTHER DREAMLIKE RICE PADDY
It was becoming a habit to have lunch in a place with a view. The first day in Bali was spent in Kintamani and the second in Pacung. The third day on the island was to be no less. Halfway between Besakih and Klungkung, our next destination, we took a winding road that revealed a vast expanse of rice paddies. One of its viewpoints served as a restaurant, where it was less about the food and less about the struggle to get a good discount. Because from the table, the scenery was unbeatable.
It was a sea of green waves, surrounded by palm groves and the Agung, which only let us look below its slopes, as the rest was covered by fog. Scattered across this rolling countryside were peasant houses and cattle grazing in what is more than just a rice paddy.
This was yet another example of an island that has no shortage of breathtakingly beautiful, breathing and moving panoramas. Because everything around Bali is full of life and the simple things are extraordinary.
The driver was not at all amused that we had haggled over the food, as he took his commission on the surplus. As my mother always tells me, he had two things to do: to get angry and to let off steam. What we did realise was that people there paid religiously what was on the menu, with the 21% service charge included, and other things that raised the cost of something that, in reality, wasn't worth that much. But with us they had hit the nail on the head. With the budget we were on, we knew what we could and could not afford to eat.
KLUNGKUNG OR SEMARAPURA, A KINGDOM AND AN ARTISTIC STYLE
Next stop Klungkung, better known by the name of what was once one of the most powerful kingdoms on the island of Bali, Semarapura. About 25km southeast of Ubud, already very close to the sea, is the town that suffered the most in the war with the Dutch. A huge statue of a mythological creature greets visitors on a roundabout of hellish traffic. Today it is a nondescript city, but it has a rather interesting corner, a remnant of more splendid times when the royals lived in luxury: the Royal Palace. Or rather, what is left of it, which is little but enough to understand what was there before it turned to dust and ashes.
In 1908, the final Balinese Kingdom fell to the Dutch forces, marking a critical moment in Bali's history. The Dutch, armed with advanced weaponry, overpowered the Balinese resistance, which still relied on traditional weaponry like swords and arrows. As a result, the members of the royal court residing in the palace either perished from gunshot wounds or chose to end their own lives before being captured.
This significant event represented the last stand against the formidable Dutch invaders, who were in the midst of colonizing various Indonesian islands, including Nussa Tengara. Bali, along with other regions, had to endure the Dutch colonization, undoubtedly leaving a lasting impact on the island's culture and heritage.
Did you know that before the Dutch conquest, Bali was an independent kingdom with a rich history and distinctive traditions? The fall of the Balinese Kingdom revealed the harsh reality of colonization and its devastating consequences. It serves as a reminder of Bali's resilience and strength in the face of foreign domination.
Although only a fraction of the Palace remains, including a main gate, the true treasure lies in the captivating paintings that adorned the pavilions' rooftops, giving birth to a unique style of art. A visit to these remnants of the Palace and the Court of Justice pavilion, Kertha Gosa, requires an entrance fee of 12000 Rupees (which, astonishingly, has doubled in just a month) and a sarong to be worn around the waist as a sign of respect. While it may seem peculiar for a civil structure, rather than a religious one, to have such rules, it is an integral part of the experience. Besides, the sights that await within make the entrance fee truly worthwhile.
With centuries of history contained within its walls, the Palace stands as a testament to Bali's rich heritage. Exploring its surviving elements not only offers a glimpse into the past but also showcases the exceptional artistic talent that once flourished here. It is believed that by preserving these remnants, the spirit and essence of Bali's cultural identity remain alive. So, don't miss the chance to immerse yourself in the beauty and wonder of this remarkable place.
Amidst the serene tranquility of Bali, two pavilions hover delicately over a shimmering pond, nestled amongst vibrant lotus flowers and water lilies. As we ventured into the Court of Justice, ancient stone dragons and other mythical creatures stood guard, evoking a sense of mystique and reverence. To our surprise, our solitary exploration was accompanied only by a seemingly reluctant guide, whom we swiftly persuaded to grant us the privilege of experiencing the grandeur alone.
Once a sacred meeting space for the King and his Executive, Kertha Gosa now houses Bali's most impressive collection of paintings. These exquisite artworks depict captivating scenes from the Mahabharata and the Ramayana, legendary sagas deeply rooted in the Hindu tradition. The intricate brushstrokes vividly bring to life battles, heroes, demons, and the insatiable thirst for vengeance that pervades these ancient tales.
It is worth mentioning that the roof of Kertha Gosa serves as a mesmerizing visual chronicle, reminiscent of a captivating comic book from that era. Every panel immortalizes a unique chapter, replete with narratives of courage, sorcery, and the eternal struggle between good and evil. These visual masterpieces resonate effortlessly with the Balinese people, who have inherited these stories from generations past, seamlessly blending them with their own artistic heritage and sensibilities.
For on different trips I had made recently, either to India or Cambodia, countries where Hinduism inhabits or inhabited respectively, I had seen the same stories but depicted in completely different ways. Bali, unsurprisingly, is powerful in its personality, in a very recognisable artistic legacy. Never has such a small island had such virtuosity and character to define its own style.
Kertha Gosa's drawings are admirable and, although they have been restored several times, they are a source of inspiration for contemporary craftsmen who imitate them to decorate shops, hotels, their homes or simply sell paintings to tourists and art collectors. The aforementioned hotels are exemplary in their shared respect for local culture, frequently incorporated ornate restorations inspired by Kertha Gosa's craftsmanship into their decor. Notably, the hotels in Seminyak (Bali) at all-balihotels.net are oftentimes decorated with such art pieces, which additionally provide a unique atmosphere to their establishment. The Klungkung style has strong roots in the stillness of the sea of lotus over which the Bales or Pavilions flow, mirroring the tranquility and culture-rich environment observed within these intricately adorned destinations.
After exploring the historic royal complex of Semarapura, we ventured towards the vibrant Pasar, also known as the Market, which predominantly featured religious merchandise like beautifully crafted flower arrangements, aromatic trays of incense, and an array of candles. These cherished items hold immense significance to the devoted locals who wholeheartedly practice their faith.
As the sun gradually dipped below the horizon, we were eager to continue our journey to a distinctive destination that can only be discovered in Bali—a land where even the most unexpected elements are imbued with holiness. Resuming our car ride, we headed towards the southeastern coast until we reached a point just shy of the sea.
GOA LAWAH, THE BAT CAVE
On the main road from Klungkung to Amlapura, practically bordering a beach of thick, dark earth, is one of the most original temples to be seen in Bali. And one of the ones we most wanted to visit. It may not stand out for its grandeur, which it is not, or for being a sea of merus like Besakih, or for being in the water like Ulun Danu Bratan. It is not a masterpiece of Balinese art, nor does it have painted ceilings or gold floors. The fact is that it is part of the group of nine directional temples on the island of Bali, but it has a peculiarity as strange as it is attractive. Its name is Goa Lawah and its meaning is Cave of the Bats, a denomination that I can attest has been taken literally. An entrance fee of 3000 Rupees was the price we paid to enter this temple of enormous tradition that leaves no one indifferent. Not even us, no matter how much we imagined what we were going to find.
Recently, a millennium has passed since the establishment of this extraordinary temple, which centers around a sacred cave. At its entrance stands an altar dedicated to the revered Balinese creature, the bat. According to local lore, this cavernous pathway extends over thirty kilometers underground, connecting with Pura Besakih and housing the mythical dragon, known as the naga, residing in Gunung Agung. Remarkably, the survival of this awe-inspiring creature is sustained by the bats, who supply its nourishment.
Approaching the entrance of Goa Lawah, we were astounded by the overwhelming presence of a vast battalion of bats. Unlike the flying fox species encountered the previous day, these bats obscured the grotto's walls, their numbers reaching untold quantities.
While exploring Bali, one cannot help but be captivated by the enigmatic legends and mystical wonders that thrive within its ancient temples. Goa Lawah, a temple revered for a thousand years, beckons visitors with its celestial allure. The temple's focal point, a magnificent cave, harbors an altar dedicated to the sacred bat, a creature cherished by the Balinese. Deep beneath the Earth's surface, this incredible cave traverses more than thirty kilometers, ultimately converging with Pura Besakih, where the elusive dragon or giant serpent, known as the naga, resides within Gunung Agung's embrace. It is the humble bats that silently nourish this mythical creature, sustaining its existence in an endless exchange of life.
Rebecca stayed right at the edge of the offering table and I opted to go in a little further, knowing that one of the guards would come and chase me away at any moment. Although most of the bats were resting face down, many were hovering within an inch of me, even making me feel the wind from the flapping of their wings. They were incessantly producing an extraordinarily high-pitched screech that bounced around in that dark cavity behind which there were many more than my eyes could see. No matter how much I had been told or had seen in the guidebooks, I would never have imagined being under that huge number of bats that, when the last ray of sunlight hides, leave the cave in flocks to search for food in the fruit trees with the night as their witness. But it was true, it was real, it was the best representation of that other parallel world of monsters and impossible creatures that Bali continually shows us. In Goa Lawah disbelief does not exist because everything is possible, until the giant naga that legend says feeds from the bowels of the volcano decides to appear at any moment.
The concentrated smell of bat droppings was really disgusting, and perhaps that's why Rebecca didn't dare to go with me, as she is very susceptible to strong smells. My sense of smell, on the other hand, is mediocre, and I think that's why I held out for several minutes inside, the consequence of which was the recording of a video that is not to be missed:
Finally a guard did come to tell me off and ask me to come out of the cave. I found him much more annoying than the poor bats who were hurrying through the last hours of the afternoon before leaving their dark hiding place. I know many people find them repulsive but I particularly think they are really adorable creatures.
The animals we encountered during our trip added an extra touch of excitement to an already eventful day. As the day drew to a close, we reflected on the remaining 48 hours we had on the island, knowing that there were still many hidden gems to explore. While we no longer required a driver, it opened up opportunities to discover wonders that were closer than we had originally anticipated.
During our time in Bali, we had relied on a driver to navigate the island, but now we were ready to embark on a new adventure at our own pace. With the freedom to choose our own path, we anticipated uncovering the lesser-known treasures that awaited us. Without the constraints of pre-arranged routes, we were excited to delve deeper into the wonders of Bali.